Each time I exit any automobile in Capri, I feel like I have cheated death.
The narrow cars, taxis and buses accommodate the uncomfortably narrow streets. Every day, we cram into the 6-seat or less buses, our most effective mode of transportation. As the driver takes off, the riders suffer a collective jerk back, often slipping and losing their balance, then grabbing the rails and holding on for dear life. And the adventure begins.
As the buses gas it up the steep roads, the drivers take advantage of the size of their vehicles, boldly jutting out in front of other smaller ones and ruling the road. But the tiny Fiats, three-wheel one-seaters and especially the motor scooters seem to be unfazed by the buses. They fight back and the scooter drivers weave between any inch (or metric system equivalent) of space they can find. Observing the streets of Rome, Naples, Capri and Sorrento, I soon understood a few things: In Italy, lanes are for suckers; if you don’t assert yourself behind the wheel, you’ll never get anywhere; pedestrians are an afterthought; and stop signs do not exist. If there were an aerial view of Italy’s roads, it would be as if the vehicles (and people) were being poured into the tiniest funnel, squeezing through, and exploding to the other side.
Upon arrival, I judged. I immediately put all Italian drivers in a box, noting their disorganization, impatience and aggression on the road. Then I thought about myself. I admit; I suffer from a slight bit of road rage. I despise people who cut me off, I drive faster than I should and I use my horn waaay more than I use my turn signal. But I learned to drive in Atlanta where traffic is a daily battle and seemingly no one follows the rules of the road, so I tell myself I have to drive just as crazily as everyone else to avoid being preyed upon (I might also suffer from the car version of the Napoleon Complex; I drive a Honda Civic, but in my mind, it’s a Humvee and I never have a problem proving it.) And while I’m comfortable behind the wheel in the States, I’ve been saying to myself, along with my classmates, that I could never drive here.
The thing is, once I look at Italian drivers in another perspective, crazy doesn’t seem to be the right word. Confident, maybe. Brave, too. Since I’m used to calmer streets, driving in Italy would scare me. But every driver and pedestrian here seems to have an unspoken respect for the other vehicles on the road. They yield to down traffic if they’re on a hill, they honk their horns to let others know when they’re driving around a blind curve, they know precisely how much space another vehicle needs to pass, and it all works. And according to one of LeTourneau’s friends on Capri, the accident rate is significantly low.
So maybe they don’t need signs and lines and signals to tell them how to navigate. They only need the understanding of another type of courtesy. A courtesy that includes just going for it. Compared to Italians, Atlantans are whiny punks with no clue of how intense driving really could be. Merging onto the Grady Curve? Easy. Rush hour traffic on North Avenue and Spring Street? Not even close. Atlantans have it easy and I’ll remember that next time I’m riding down I-285 and complaining about those speeding around me.
Ciao,
Ang.